So for the last couple years, I've been wanting to make wood crates to use in my brewery. I found a good set of plans at:
http://www.mullerbrau.com/beer_crate_plans.htm

The only problem is that I have neither a router or a tablesaw to make the box joints or the dado joint that holds the masonite bottom. I know there are other joints that can be used, but I'm wary of strength issues (24 full bottles of beer could put some stress on the corners after repeated use. I do have a miter saw that could be used, but again, worried about the strength. Could a dremel (thanks Theo!) be used, or would that risk burning out the motor?

You don't want to use a Dremel for that. Dremel tools are for small jobs and fine detail.

Remember there's my table saw in Metis' garage (training and/or assistance needed if you've never used one) and also my old hand router. It's nothing fancy, but it is a router, and if it were to become part of a router TABLE (with fence, dust collector, etc.) it could be just the thing.

Also, there's Studio Bricolage. Might want to drop Steve J. a PM.

Yeah, only used a table saw a couple times in High School. All my 4H woodworking projects were done w/ hand tools (dad was cheap, told me it'd build character), and nothing to do w/ joinery was ever really looked at. After the SW&C is done, we should work on building a router table. That sounds like a fun project.

I have some woodworking tools that I was planning on donating to the cause when we finally get a space.
Including a router table and floor stand. Sorry, but I burned out the router years ago.
It looks very much like this, but is mounted to a floor stand:


Along with a jig for cutting dovetail and box joints that looks very much like this:


I also have a bench-top scroll saw that I would donate as well.

But until we get a space to call our own, I'd be willing to lend these to anyone in need.
Especially for a beer related project.
-mark-

ugh, I remember trying to cut dovetails by hand and failing miserably.

I wonder if my basic little Black&Decker non-plunging hand router could be fitted to that table. Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like it has a beefier router in it. Mine's got a 1/4" collet.

if we did up a jig i'm sure there are enough of us who brew that we could do a passel of these in one go as an assembly sort of set up.

i would NOT use masonite for the bottom though i'd go with 3/8" cdx. and prolly 1/2" for teh sides with a stepped lip to support the base. (each side is a ~1" strip of ply inside the real side pieces protuding ~3/8" from the bottom so they stack securely, and the structural stuff sits off the floor and wet.)

i'd also use BCX or CCX for a bit of splash proofing and cheaper materials (who cares what the inside looks like unless your'e gonna do the thing outa solid panels.... which are pretty....)

BCX and CCX are grade of plywood.

the first two letters denote the grade of the exterior surfaces and the x means the exterior gets a coat of glue too, and in function gives it some abrasion, and mild water resistance.

CDX is typical sub floor.

iirc:
grade D includes cracks, voids and open knots
grade C has no voids and filled knots (fill, sand and paint for pretty, paint for rough look)
grade B is smooth but aesthetic problems (sand and paint for pretty)
grade A is clear (stain/varnish for pretty)

since the crates aren't too tall, and rely on even bottle height for stacking 1x8 may make for very pretty cases, although that may be pricier than plywood.