We want the first segment of the sculpture to be drawn by you!  Submit your photos by tweeting to @HackFactoryMN with the hashtags of #nspk38 and #underground.  First 20 people to tweet us before June 8th with photos of their drawings will receive two LED throwies on the night of the event.  Please help support this project by donating to our Indiegogo campaign or sharing this with your friends!

Cali, Aaron, and I did a small test run of Steel, Exquisite corpse of last night, and it turned out really cool! 

My design is inspired by 2 sources: the Frank Lloyd Wright Origami Chair and the Converse All Star sneaker.  I’ve always wanted to re-design the Origami Chair as an updated, cool lounger.  The Converse reference came later, after hours of observation, when it struck me (and my friend Ann who stopped by the Hack Factory for a critique session), that my placement of masking tape around the rockers was reminiscent of a pair of red sneakers (more on this in a future post).

This probably looks like a simple chair to make but there are no right angles so it was tough!

A few years ago I made a large, black lacquered version of FLW’s Origami Chair and I kept one for my own home.  Using the chair at my home, I started my new chair by tracing a pattern onto poster board.  Then, I made another pattern about 2/3 the size of the large one, tweaked the proportions and used that pattern to cut the plywood.

I am interested in learning tips for sanding complicated shapes like this. It is a slow process for me.

The seat and back are carved from spray foam and covered in body filler then sanded, more body filler, then sanded…

Once I assembled the plywood pieces I carved an ergonomic seat and back out of spray foam.  To create a smooth surface, I covered the carved foam in body filler and then did a lot of sanding.

Next week I will discuss the main design problem with FLW’s Origami Chair and whether or not I solved it.

 Sign up for the class at Eventbrite!

Arduino 101 is back for one one more round, just in time for summer vacation monkeying about. This will more than likely be the last Arduino 101 class until September, so if you’ve been looking for the intro course you’ll want to sign up!

This round runs on Friday nights, 5/31 and 6/7, from 7:00pm – 9:00pm. 

Ever wanted to make something blink or buzz, but don’t know where to start?  This is the class that will teach you the basics of what an Arduino can do, and how microcontrollers are awesome!

Cost is $50, which includes a parts kit we’ll be using in class (it’s yours to keep!). Students will need to supply their own Arduino board and laptop. 

• The class focuses on the Arduino Uno model, but everything works with the Arduino Mega as well. The Arduino Leonardo is new and I haven’t had a chance to play with it, but I expect it’ll play nicely.
• Arduino-compatible boards/Arduino clones might cause some issues — pin layouts may be different, and in some cases they’re not 100% code-compatible. If you already have one, feel free to bring it in, but if you’re just getting started I recommend buying an official Arduino board.
• If you don’t have an Arduino, they’re available at most local Radio Shack stores, and also at Micro Center in St. Louis Park. Or you can check the Vend-A-Kit machine at the Hack Factory! (And of course you can mail-order one, but where’s the instant gratification in that?)
• If you haven’t got a laptop, please get in touch. We can possibly work something out.

My goal is to make both short and tall stools that are CNC cut from sheet material, and are assembled without hardware, glue, or pegs if I can manage it. I’m guessing mine will have a bit more utilitarian look too, but Gregg’s stuff is great inspiration to make it beautiful and functional.
I also recently made a plenum plate for one of the vacuum formers, which I neglected to take any pictures of, which brings me to my request. If you are checked out on the CNCs at the Hack Factory and are working on projects, I’d love to see them, and I think the community would to, please send links to your work!

Pete

We are also in the process of fundraising for this project, currently we need about $3,800 to help cover the costs of materials, and $4,200 total to cover rewards. We receive all funds that are pledged.

Go donate now!

So lets talk about one of the projects, Strange Attractors.  You may remember me from such things as the Raspberry Pi powered cat feeder.  While I’m at it again, and making stuff with the Raspberry Pi.  I was asked create a few blog posts for MCM that talked about the Raspberry Pi Camera module that I’m going to use in my next project.

Image credit: Alex Weber, http://www.flickr.com/people/8123185@N02/

I am creating an art piece, Strange Attractors, for the Northern Spark Art Festival on June 8th.  This art piece was inspired by Alex Weber who had designed individual modules of fireflies, which could be hooked up in sequence, and programed to mimic fireflies, and respond to light.  I wanted to expand on his concept, and make a whole wall of fireflies, but do not have the resources or time to make 350-500 individual modules.  I’m also on a budget, and 350+ modules would not be cost effective for for this project.

So this is where we turn to the Raspberry Pi + Addressable LEDs + Camera = WIN!

My first concept was going to involve 24 photo resistors, and a host of analog inputs using the MCP3008 chips.  It’s a great idea, but I might run into some technical issues as I only have a limited number of GPIO lines to drive my LEDs, and analog inputs.  Additionally, that means that I would need to run and address 24 inputs in my code, and wire all that stuff up.  Not hard, but I’m looking for a way to reduce my build time. I may still have this as a backup plan, but I wanted to see if we could use the camera module to get this working.

After I was awarded the Utility prize in the Make/MCM Raspberry Pi design contest, I figured I’d check to see if they had any camera modules in-stock that I could pre-order so that I could start on this project, as my build is starting next week.  Unfortunately, they didn’t (not that I would expect special treatment, but you never know), however they said that they had one in their lab, and would be willing to send it my way if I could give them status updates on this project.  Of course I can!  A few hours of writing to save a few days of my time is a no-brainer!  So Here it is, the first blog post in what I will assume to be a series of updates about this project.

 Better cat hopper feeds leads to less jams.

Learn how to use a CNC router to cut 2D and 3D objects out of a variety of materials. TC Maker has 3 CNC routers available at the Hack Factory, come and learn how to use them and start making your own awesome stuff!

The class will have two parts (Machine Check-out, and CAM gcode creation) with the machine introduction and check-out scheduled for 1pm – 5pm Saturday and the CAM workshop from 10am – 2pm on Sunday.

Intro to CNC Class Sign up here. It’s $45 for the 2 days of class

VERY IMPORTANT! The CNC introduction class is just to demonstrate safe and proficient use of the machines, and everyone will be cutting a pre-selected file that I have prepared. To learn to make and cut your own creations study the tutorials referenced below and come to Sunday’s workshop ready to work, there will be limited lecture and lots of hands on support

Intro to CNC, CNC overview and safe use check-out

Attendees will be provided a 2D gcode file, and need to demonstrate proficiency, by safely cutting the part on the machine.

• Saturday first thing: We will begin with a quick demonstration of how the machines work in the shop
• Saturday early afternoon: Then we’ll cover the safe operation of the machines, and CNC concepts and terminology in the classroom
• Saturday late afternoon: individual user check-out on the machines

Intro to CAM, 2D and 3D Computer Aided Machining (CAM)

Attendees will be given an overview on how to use 2D and 3D CAM software to generate the gcode or tools paths that the CNC machines use to cutout parts. Please see the important notice below on accessing the software before class so you are ready to go!

It is highly recommended you bring a laptop to Sunday’s workshop. To work with 3D files and 3D CAM you must have a Windows computer, or a computer with Wine installed, and have installed the Vectric Cut3D software

• Sunday morning:     gcode creation for 2D, and 3D objects.
• Break for Lunch 
• Sunday afternoon:   individual help with gcode creation, user check-out for those who couldn’t Sat afternoon and cutting of files for the code creation group.

Build Your Own Raised Bed Garden

After this class you will go home with raised bed garden built by your very own hands and the knowledge to use it. We use all natural cedar because it has such a resilience to the elements, lasts for years to come, and it smells great. Along with building your garden the instructor will present a basic small space gardening class. This class is for all skill levels.

Build Your Own Potato Tower

Wanna grow your own potatoes for the year, but don’t have a lot of space? This class will provide the simple solution of a potato tower. In a space as small as 3′x3′ you can grow up to 60 pounds of potatoes.

Build Your Own Backyard Compost Bin

Nothing aids in success in your gardening efforts more that great soil. We have a growing need to reduce the waste that is put into our landfills. We all moan and groan about bagging out leaves every fall. We have a solution that addresses all those problems, it’s simple, backyard composting.

Build Your Own Kitchen Window Herb Garden

Nothing is quite as rewarding as growing and using your very own herbs. In this class we use a simple, attractive design that is very low maintenance. We will be using cedar because it is attractive and lasts for a long time.

Satruday’s weather was not bad- chilly, but bearable if you were wearing warm clothing.  Sunday we saw that the temperature plummet, and the wind kicked up- so it would have been impossible to keep the tent warm enough for exhibitors.  So we made the executive decision to move all the tables inside, and squished everyone together, and it worked out great!

If you have photos of the event make sure to tag them with MinneFaire.  Thanks to everyone involved!  We hope to do it again sometime!

We also have a few on-line posts from folks:

• TC Daily Planet
• Video from a member on you tube

Several of you have asked if there will be a table dedicated for our members to exhibit their completed projects/hacked hardware. Yes, there will be!

We still need you to sign up using our exhibitor sign up form — just make a note that you want to display on the TC Maker/Hack Factory table and be sure to include the size of the space it will consume. Space is limited and will be assigned on a first come, first served basis. Please do so by April 7th, as this helps us to plan our space appropriately. By signing up, you also get the advantage of exhibitor pricing ($5 for 2 admissions, which is a steal!).

Please note: you must pre-register or contact us prior to the fair to exhibit.

Go to the Exhibitor page on Minnefaire.org, and click on the signup form under “Open Call” at the bottom.

UPDATE (4/8/2013): We have closed the registration form, but we still have space for member projects. Please email fair at tcmaker dot org to reserve your space.

If you have any problems filling out the form, Laura, Riley or David would be happy to help you!

Thank you,
Laura
Minne-Faire Co-Chair

The Hack Factory is a space for people to prototype, invent, share, learn, teach, and improve upon our community by empowering people.  Once a prototype has been developed in our space, and a production line is needed, The Mill would be any professional makers next step, and it will leave a void in our community.  However, we will be in talks with Brian to identify what works for our group, and how we can best support the community.

That said, we do welcome anyone to stop by The Hack Factory, and check the space out to see if it’s right for you.  Our Minne Faire is April 13th & 14th, and we have open houses every Wednesday from 7-9pm.

We could go over topics like:
Sewing (yes sewing is fun and guys can be good at it)
Pattern making
Making molds and copies
Fabricating appliances
Latex mask creation
Leather masks
Airbrushing
How to not pass out from heat exhaustion.

I’d like to put this together more like a camp. Where there is a topic and it starts with information, but the rest of the day is spent with as much or as little time “making” as you need. A lot of the time a person just needs direction to get from one place to another.

To give an example: You want to make a Mystique from X-Men costume. How would you make her signature skull belt? Well with silicone/latex molding of course. But were do you get molding supplies, and how does it work. Then how do you make copies? These were question I had and I am guessing there are a lot of people interested in coplay but do not know how to get the idea into reality.

Hey, if you are interested, leave a comment. Its never too early to start making a costume, but its often too late…

Image is of the Maker (going by the name of No 96). photo taken by Tokyo Fashion

Ya know, so the cats don’t over eat, and maybe have a mixture of food, and it’s super cool! (Did I mention that it’s cool!?) So… five days before leaving town, I purchased the food hopper, and very quickly ran out of time to complete the project before leaving on vacation. So plan B it was, a large bowl of cat food , and water.

However, I did stick with my original plan, and saw the build to completion well before my next trip out of town. In this blog post, I’ll list out the step-by-step (for the most part) process to building your very own Wifi Enabled Raspberry Pi Powered Cat/Human Feeder.

I’ve published a Google spreadsheet here, that lists the specific parts and components that you need to acquire for this project. It’s really simple, and can be easily assymbled in about 4-6 hours once you have all the parts.

Tools required:

• Soldering Iron
• Drill
• 1/2″ drill bit
• 1″ drill bit (for push button switch, optional)
• Hot glue gun + glue
• Wire cutter
• Pliers

Prerequisites for the build:

• Have all the parts on-hand, check out the Google spread sheet.
• Have a working and installed an OS on the Pi. Adafruit Occidentalis or Raspbian work well.
• Have the Wifi Adaptor setup and ready to go: Occidentalis or Raspbian
• Play around with the GPIO in and out on the Pi by downloading the code from my GitHub Repo
• Install the Python GPIO.PWM module: RPIO install docs

Mount the servos!

The continuous rotation servos need to be attached to the handles to rotate the flapper wheel. First thing first, test to see if the servo is powerful enough to move the flapper handle. I grabbed some gaffer tape in this case, and taped it to the front of the handle, and held on to it, while telling the servo to run.

This at least told me that the servo could move the flapper around without to much of an issue. Granted there isn’t a load on this, as we don’t have any food stuff in it.

Next I decided that the handles should be on the back side, so that they are not exposed to someone hitting or bumping them (or getting caught). So I moved the handles to the back side. By moving the handles to the back, I needed to remove about 3/4″ on each end. This way the handle could easily rotate in a 360deg circle.Now lets cut out a channel for the servo head…

I eventually ended up cutting out about 2mm into the channel, and basically making an outline for where the servo should sit. This was mostly so that when I stick this guy on with hot glue, it has something to push against, where as if it were placed on the surface, it would not have the leverage and it would break very quickly. Hot glue is great for holding things in place, but not for making strong mechanical joints. I also added two zip ties, and for support after the hot glue had started to set. As you can see I’ve made a channel for the servo header, and attempted to make the servo shaft as close to center as possible.

Wire it all up!

I used a “Small-Size Perma-Proto Raspberry Pi Breadboard PCB Kit” from Adafruit on this one. Start by adding a three pin header to the board for each servo. This makes it easy to plug/unplug the servos. Back side of the board….

If you look a the back side, where I soldered the Servo headers, I made one of them a 5V solder bridge (from the 5V rail on up), The other one on the left is a ground solder bridge, and a link to the first hole, where I wired the GPIO outs from PINs 18 and 23.

To make this work, you first need to use a nippers (side cutters or a dyke) and carefully clip the traces on the top two rows. Once the traces are gone, you can then solder in the header connections for the servos.

Next, we need to add on in a current limiting resistor for the LED lights, as we don’t want to blow them up! A 390Ohm resistor soldered on to a wire works great!

Make sure you add some heat shrink tube before you solder the resistor on…

In this case, I replaced the incandescent bulb with and LED, just open the switch (easier said then done), and swap out the bulb for an LED and add a little bit of solder. Connect the resistor side of the LEDs to pins 4 and 27 on the breakout board. Connect the negative side to the negative rail (don’t forget to connect the negative rail to the GND row).

Now, we want to have a button that does something when someone pushes it. In this case, we are using that same 390ohm resistor as what’s called a pull down resistor. The resistor is connected to ground, and ensures that our input pin doesn’t “float” in a state of sudo high, but not really high. Then we hook the other side of the switch up to the 3v rail. When the switch is pushed it reads as “High” in the GPIO system or “True” in python.

Lastly hookup your beeper to pin 24, and ground.

Now, once everything is soldered, and you have tested it all by pushing buttons and such, now you can begin to modify your feeder case, and stick it all back together… I drilled holes for the USB power cable, the servo headers, a through hole, and the side buttons.

And then I jammed it all into the one pillar…

Now it looks like this:

Now, set it up and test it!

Full Flickr Photo set here.

Future improvements include:

• Pi camera
• Mobile WebUI using PiUi
• Powered speakers
• Audio clips from red dwarf, specifically the Cat requesting fish.

Contact info:

Twitter: @_videoman_

Email: dave at nospam drstrangelove dot net

Classes start April 2nd, and April 20th.

So you want to play with a Raspberry Pi?  But maybe you haven’t been able to get one yet.  Well you’re in luck!  This class includes a Raspberry Pi, Wifi, Power, Cables, LEDs, SD Card!  This is everything you need to get the Pi going.  Don’t know what a Raspberry Pi is? Check out this article from the NYTimes.  The ticket includes $120 worth of hardware for you and the class tutorials.

Class Kit Includes:

• Adafruit Raspberry Pi Starter Kit
• Raspberry Pi w/512MB of RAM
• WiFi Card
• 4GB SD Card
• Power Supply + USB
• GPIO breakout board, bread board and jumpers.
• Misc LED, buttons, resistors, etc for the lessons.

This will be a two-day class.  A laptop computer with at least 4 Gigs of space for the SD card image will be required.

Day 1) Bootstrapping your Raspberry PI (~2 hours)

• Install Linux on your SD Card
• Start the Pi: Boot and config process
• How to run programs on your Pi & basic Linux intro

Day 2) Doing fun things, like Python and GPIO programing (~2 hours)

• Setup the WiFi device
• Python Basics, and functions.
• Blink an LED
• Get switch input
• Use a photo-resistor to read light levels
• Read data from a temperature sensor
• Read analog inputs

BYOPI Option

If you have a Raspberry Pi board already, it must be the version that was released December 2012 with 512MB of Memory on board.  The older boards have different PIN layouts that are inconsistent with the material that I’m teaching in class, and makes for a bit of a stumbling block when doing lessons.  Additionally, all of the kits are pre-buldled with a Raspberry Pi by default, and are pre-ordered well before the class begins so we have enough stock for all students.  This means that we may have extra Pis for sale at the start/end of the class.

Table Saw Etiquette

By Christopher Odegard, Wood Shop Manager

The table saw probably is the most-often used power tool at the Hack Factory, in part because its operation is relatively straightforward. As a result of the heavy use ours sees, the staff has to work diligently to make sure it’s running well and ready to go. There are a number of things that every member can do to help.

Clean Up and Put Away

Keeping the saw clean—as well as the floor around it—makes the shop safer, and means the next person to use the tool doesn’t have to clean up your mess before they can start their own project. Please sweep the tabletop and floor of sawdust and debris when you are done. Use the dust collection vacuum, even if you are only making one quick little cut—this makes clean up easier and also cuts down on airborne particles.

When the saw is not being used, the saw blade should be set below the surface of the table. When the blade set to a certain height above the tabletop, this should be an indication that the saw is being used. When finished, the push sticks and other safety equipment should be placed back in the red Craftsman tool chest. This same cabinet is where the alternative saw blades and the blade-changing wrench may be found. As always, other hand tools and clamps should be returned to their proper place.

Be Smart and Safe

The Hack Factory has safety equipment all members should be aware of, and know how to use. If you recognize a need that is not filled—or if supplies are running low—please contact the Woodshop Manager. Here is a partial list of items intended to make using the table saw not only safer, but more accurate and easier-to-use:

• Miter guide. This should be used for all small cross cuts or angle cuts. Always make a test pass before turning on the saw to make your cut—this ensures the miter guide will not strike the blade
• Goggles and ear plugs. Protect your head, you may want to use it later
• Push sticks and feather boards. These help keep the material where you want it, while keeping your precious fingers far away from the blade
• Rip fence. Make sure this is securely fixed and remember the measuring tape on the tool is not precisely accurate. When using thin stock, or making thin cuts, please add a sacrificial wooden face to the guide
• Dado sets. When a wide kerf is desired
• Taper-cutting sled jig. For cutting long, narrow stock into bows, table legs, etc.
• Cross-cutting sled. This supports wider and heavier boards than the miter guide
• Run-off table. Almost like an extra pair of hands. Please keep this table clear of tools and projects so it can be used as intended

Use the Right Blade on the Right Tool

Most of the blades in the Hack Factory wood shop are intended for use only with wood and wood products! Blade manufacturers make specialty tools for cutting plastics, ceramics, metals, and other common project materials. Using a blade intended for wood on PVC can damage or dull the blade, and it doesn’t even provide you with a very good cut on your plastic.

Plastic softens when hot, and residue builds up and coats a blade not designed for that material, making it useless (a process known as chip welding). A similar thing can be said about material that has a very high glue and resin content, like particle board and MDF. This kind of specialty lumber is suitable for a wood-cutting blade, but it dulls the dickens out of them. There is a blade designated as the MDF blade, it is already a bit dull and will cut resinous material just fine.

Metal should never be cut with a blade intended for wood. Ever. Yes, this does include aluminum. The Hack Factory has a well-maintained metal shop; please use it. Fine metal dust can invade wood materials, and can even cause damage months afterward. Iron dust, for example, will slowly react with the high tannic acid content of oak and bloom with oxidation—showing up as black blotches on the surface of the wood many months after you’ve perfected that high-gloss varnish finish on your furniture. Anyone sanding, drilling, or cutting metal in the woodshop should be quickly escorted to the ample workspace and tools of the metals area.

You likely will want to do some research to learn what kind of cutting blade is best suited for your intended material. It’s a good idea to research these matters before you even acquire the project materials, but it should absolutely be done before you bring material into the shop and approach the saw. If you need a specialty blade that is not available in the shop, it probably means you will need to provide one for your project. If this is the case, please mention it to the woodshop manager; if there are enough requests for a tile cutting blade (or some other specialty blade) we might be able to justify the purchase of one for use by all members.

There are many ways circular saw blades vary. The type and shape of each tooth, the angles of the teeth, as well as the number of teeth is varied to best address the intended use. Most of the blades at the Hack Factory are listed as “Combination” or “Multi-Purpose” blades. This means the blade is suited cross-cutting or ripping of hardwood, softwood, plywood, or other low-resin composites. The intent is to make a limited variety of blades available so that users can choose the best blade for their material.

If you do not know how to remove and replace a table saw blade, find someone who can show you, or find an educational video online somewhere (like this one: http://www.ehow.com/video_4427306_change-table-saw-blades.html). It takes almost no time at all. It is a fairly straightforward process of removing the blade insert, extracting the reverse-threaded nut, taking off the vibration-dampening washer, and then carefully swapping the blades. As always, when maintaining power equipment, unplug the saw before you start working to change the blade.

Make, Share, and Learn

If you see someone working in the woodshop, it is definitely appropriate to raise the issue if they appear to be using the tool unsafely. This is a place of learning, and we want everyone to be able to use all the tools safely, and for them all to be ready and in good working order. Please help others to use the tablesaw more safely and more efficiently, as with any tool in the shop. And please be open when others approach you about such things—they are trying to look out for you.

This Saturday, Twin Cities Maker is proud to host the Hennpin County Fix-It Clinic!

Remember that broken toaster you’ve had sitting in the basement for a year, waiting for you to figure out how to fix it? Well, now is your chance! Bring your broken household goods and clothing in need of repair to Hennepin County’s Fix-It Clinic.

Fix-It Clinics reduce the amount of stuff that gets thrown in the trash, teach valuable troubleshooting and basic repair skills, and build community connections. These are family-friendly events.

Volunteer fixers are needed to make this initiative a success. Volunteers have skills in soldering, electronics and electrical repair, computer repair, sewing and general tinkering.

Please contact Nancy Lo at nancy.lo@co.hennepin.mn.usor 612-348-9195 with questions or to volunteer, or see more details at hennepin.us/fixitclinic.

Interested in amateur radio? Whether you’re a licensed ham, or just curious what amateur radio is all about, come on down to the Hack Factory on Monday, March 11th at 7PM. We will be having an open discussion about ham radio, and likely some demonstrations using the amateur radio station set up in the front lounge. This event is free and open to the general public.

Participate, meet and get inspired by other makers and DIY artists that are interested in electronics, 3-D printing, metalworking, woodworking and textiles. This year’s Minne-Faire will include exhibits, demonstrations, power wheels racing, vendors, music, and food.

Schedule:

Saturday April 13th:

• 11am – 5pm Exhibits, demos, vendors, and booths
• 7pm – 11pm Minne-Faire after hours which includes music, drinks.

Sunday April 14th:

• 11am – 5pm Exhibits, demos, vendors, and booths

Cost is $5 until 3/22, then $8 online, and $10 at the door. Children under 15, accompanied by an adult ticket get in free.   One badge gets you into both days and after hours events.

Interested in exhibiting or helping out?

Do you want to show of that super cool project?  Exhibitors get a table and two admissions for $5.  Please signup here.

Are you coming to Minne-Faire with a Power wheels racing series (http://www.powerracingseries.org/) car?  Register here.

Do you think you have what it takes to help out?  We welcome members and community volunteers to help us out! Please signup for volunteering here.

If you have questions, want to sponsor the event, or for more info, please use our Contact Us form.

Thanks!
Laura & Riley, Minne-Faire Co-Chairs
faire@tcmaker.org

http://minnefaire.org/

This month we will be learning about the art of mosaics and how to get started in making your own. The evening will start with a discussion of the history and process for creating mosaics. Followed by a demonstration of the basic tools and techniques, as well as examples of finished mosaic pieces. Feel free to come with questions or your own mosaics to share.

Signup for Women Host: Intro to Mosaics, it’s free!

Feel free to bring a beverage (BYOB) to enjoy while we sit and chat about our current and future projects. We hope to see you there!

Women Host at The Hack Factory is the last Tuesday of every month. It is a night that is open to all women in our community to demonstrate, share and connect. We believe everyone should have access to our resources and open exchange of information. Future events will continue to be posted here or on the Women Host at The Hack Factory Facebook page – please like us! This event is free of charge and open to the public.

 Sign up for the class at Eventbrite!

Ever wanted to make something blink or buzz, but don’t know where to start?  This is the class that will teach you the basics of what an Arduino can do, and how microcontrollers are awesome!

The February class is on Friday nights, Feb. 22 and March 1, from 7-9pm.

Cost is $50, which includes a parts kit we’ll be using in class (it’s yours to keep!). Students will need to supply their own Arduino board and laptop. 

• The class focuses on the Arduino Uno model, but everything works with the Arduino Mega as well. The Arduino Leonardo is new and I haven’t had a chance to play with it, but I expect it’ll play nicely.
• Arduino-compatible boards/Arduino clones might cause some issues — pin layouts may be different, and in some cases they’re not 100% code-compatible. If you already have one, feel free to bring it in, but if you’re just getting started I recommend buying an official Arduino board.
• If you don’t have an Arduino, they’re available at most local Radio Shack stores, and also at Micro Center in St. Louis Park. Or you can check the Vend-A-Kit machine at the Hack Factory! (And of course you can mail-order one, but where’s the instant gratification in that?)
• If you haven’t got a laptop, please get in touch. We can possibly work something out.